|Twisted Throttle LLC
Cart - $0.00

You have no items in your shopping cart.

USD
YouTube Facebook Twitter 855-255-5550 Email Us

Kawasaki KLR650E (2008)- SW-MOTECH Crash Bars

Posted on June 30, 2010 by TwistedThrottle.com There have been 0 comments

Here we have an article on installing SW-MOTECH Crashbars on the Kawasaki KLR650E (2008 TO PRESENT).

Brought to you by one of our customers from Canada by the name of Dave. He created this tutorial as a resource for persons installing these on their bikes (especially those that are less-handy). Or, for those considering a purchase and basing their decision in part on the labor and skill required to install them.


A few notes prior to starting:

  • If you have an aftermarket or custom skid-plate, it will probably need to be removed prior to starting the install.

  • If you have the stock plastic skid-plate, I would recommend removing it as well as installing the front bolts will be problematic if you don't.

  • The SW-Motech instructions indicate that the tank and radiator cover must be removed- this is untrue as you simply have to UNBOLT and reposition the tank (which includes removing two bolts from the plastic fairing) to access the sub-frame bolts. Removal of these components sounds like major surgery and may scare many people from attempting to do this themselves. This is unfortunate as this is easily a job that can be done with quite little mechanical skills in just a couple of hours.

  • These instructions might be tedious for those that are very mechanically-adept, but if you are already a bike mechanic, you probably wouldn't be here reading this! These instructions were written for those of you that are far less skilled but still like to "do it yourself".

  • Finally- improper installation of any device on a motor vehicle can result in injury, property damage or death. I take no responsibility for anything untoward that may occur should you follow these instructions. They are for information purposes only. If you are uncertain of your abilities, consult a mechanic or someone experienced in such repairs. I have no affiliation with SW-Motech, Twisted-Throttle or any other bike company.


It is helpful to organize the included hardware to ease installation. Here, the bolts are aligned from longest to shortest with their sizes and SW-MOTECH part number at the bottom in parenthesis. Dave used a dry erase marker on his cast-iron table saw surface but a sheet of paper on the floor works just as well.
He strongly recommens that you lay the hardware out in this manner and ESPECIALLY write down the part number to avoid confusion. The few minutes spent organizing at the outset will be more than recouped by avoiding mistakes later! Arrows indicate the SW-MOTECH Part Numbers in parenthesis.
Spacers and washers are also aligned with their designated "part number" in parenthesis at the bottom. It's worth doing!
Observe the rear plastic cover on the bike's right side and locate the front mounting bolt (just behind the fuel tank). Remove this bolt with a socket wrench and an 8mm socket.
Locate the rear mounting bolt in the same plastic cover. Remove the rear mounting bolt with a socket wrench and an 8 mm socket.
The rear cover is now unfastened from the bike. Remove the rear cover. Repeat the above steps on the bike's left side to remove the left rear cover.
The seat is mounted to the bike with a single bolt on each side.
Remove the right seat mounting bolt with a 10 mm wrench/socket. Remove the identical bolt on the left side of the seat.
The seat is now held only by a small friction mount at it's front. (This T-shaped catch can be seen in the photo on the back-side of the tank just above the black tubing that enters the tank). Remove the seat by pulling the seat's rearmost end upward slightly while pushing down and rearward at the front raised portion. The seat will slide down slightly (aprox 1 inch) as it moves rearward, allowing it to be free of the "catch".
As mentioned earlier, we are not actually removing the fuel tank from the bike- merely unbolting it and lifting it slightly to access the sub-frame bolt on each side of the bike. No fuel line blocking/removing/repositioning must be done; it's simply a matter of removing the two mounting bolts (located at the rearmost portion of the tank) and lifting the tank a couple of inches. The photo shows a socket wrench removing the bike's right bolt with the left bolt just visible in the background. Remove the mounting bolts with a 10 mm socket
The rubber bushings can remain; only the bolt must be removed. Keep the washer with the bolt to avoid losing it or potential confusion later when reassembling. Remove the same bolt on the bike's left side (shown in the photo background).
Locate the top, rearmost mounting bolt on the right side of the fairing. Using an 8 mm socket wrench, remove this bolt. Remove the identical bolt on the bike's left side.
As shown in the photo, the rear portion of the tank only needs to be raised about 1.75 inches to access the sub-frame mounting bolt (shown under the tank at the junction of the two black metal tubes) Using a small block of wood or similar object as a spacer, gently lift the fuel tank at the rear and slide the spacer under the tank to hold it at that height. Ensure that the hex-head (Allan) bolt (indicated by red arrow) is accessible.
Using a 12 mm wrench or socket wrench, remove the two bolts that attach the right footpeg to the sub-frame (indicated with yellow arrows). These bolts can be discarded as longer bolts are supplied and must be used with the crash bars.
After removing the two bolts, the footpeg can be removed from the bike.
For this step you will likely have to lie on the floor unless you have a high motorcycle lift. The front mounting point for the stock skidplate is located on the forward portion of the frame immediately behind the front wheel and just ahead of the engine block. Two long bolts pass through the frame tube from the right side, with two nuts on the left side portion (indicated by my fingers).
Remove both bolts and nuts by using a 12 mm wrench on one side and a 12 mm socket on the other as shown in the photo. Once removed, the bolts can be discarded as longer replacements are included in the kit. NOTE: the nuts are NOT included with the kit and must be reused.
The rear cover is now unfastened from the bike. Remove the rear cover. Repeat the above steps on the bike's left side to remove the left rear cover.
The seat is mounted to the bike with a single bolt on each side.
Remove the right side sub-frame mounting bolt using an 8 mm hex-head key (also called an Allen wrench). Once removed, this bolt can be discarded as new, larger bolts are supplied with the crash bars.
This bolt was likely installed using a thread-locking compound and was applied with considerable torque, which will likely make removal with a small Allen wrench difficult. For this reason, it may be preferable to use a socket wrench with an 8mm Allen socket (shown in left photo) to remove the bolt. Remove the sub-frame bolt
IMPORTANT! Only ONE side can be done at a time. DO NOT remove the sub-frame mounting bolts from the other side of the bike as damage can result. ONE side at a time! In this case, the right side crash bar is being installed first, so only the right-side sub-frame mounting bolt is removed.
This brings us to the first step in the SW-MOTECH instructions (Step A) which is attaching the crash bar to the sub-frame mounting bolt. Hold the right crash bar alongside the bike and rotate until all holes in the bar are adjacent to/align with a mounting position on the bike. Locate the following hardware: one of the two M10x1.25x70 bolts (part #9 on SW-MOTECH Instructions) Note: see photo at Step 1 which includes the SW-MOTECH numbers in parenthesis), 10.5mm washer (part #10 on SW-MOTECH Instructions), 10.5x27mm spacer (part #11 on SW-MOTECH Instructions).
Insert the bolt through the washer and then through the crash bar mounting hole. On the opposite (inner) side, the bolt will pass through the spacer. The photo shows how the assembly will be inserted into the sub-frame mounting hole.
At this point, apply a "medium strength" thread-locking substance to the male threads of the bolt and then insert the bolt (as shown in the previous step) into the mounting hole. If the bolt does not pass fully through or does not "catch" the threads when rotating, it is likely that the sub-frame shifted slightly after the initial bolt was removed. To allow clear passage of the mounting bolt, a small pry bar may be required. Simply place the pry bar between the two steel tubes and lift gently on the horizontal tube to reposition it such that the two holes are aligned. Do not apply pressure to plastic components! A flashlight will assist in determining if the holes are perfectly aligned and a second person may also be of great assistance here allowing you to pry while they thread the bolt.
Tighten the bolt with a 17 mm socket wrench. The SW-MOTECH instructions which indicate that the M10 bolt should be torqued to 46 newton-meters. The equivalent of 46 Nm is 33.92 foot pounds. Depending upon your time constraints and how quickly you work, you may wish to just snug all bolts up finger-tight and do the final tightening/torquing after all three points are attached. It should be noted that some thread-locking compounds harden quicker than others and if some people want to take a break between steps, the compound may harden while the bolt is not in it's final (tightened) position. For this reason, it is recommend that you apply the thread compound and tightening/torquing as you go.
If you are also following the SW-MOTECH instructions, we are now at their "Step B". - Locate the following hardware: Two M8x110 bolts (the two longest ones, SW-MOTECH part # 5), Two 8.4mm washers (SW-MOTECH part #6), Two nuts that were removed in Step 6.
Place the washers on each bolt. Slide the bolts through the crash bar mounting holes. Place an 8.4x9mm spacer (SW-MOTECH part #7) on each bolt*. The spacers are placed on the inside (between the crash bar and the frame, NOT between crash-bar and bolt). Slide the bolts all the way through the frame holes (Gentle tapping with a small hammer may assist- however don't force it!) On the opposite (left side) where the bolts protrude, install spacers on the bolt shaft. Place the nut on the left side however don't tighten yet- it's just temporary to avoid losing it and the spacer between now and the installation of the left bar. *Note that if you have an SW-MOTECH or similar skidplate that mounts to the lower bolts, do not use the spacers on the two bottom bolts.
This is now "Step C" of the SW-MOTECH Instruction sheet) Locate the following hardware: two of the M8x30 bolts (SW-MOTECH Part #2), two 8.4mm washers (SW-MOTECH Part #3), Place the washers on the bolts. Coat the male threads in medium thread-locking compound.
Slide the bolts through the foot-peg mounting holes, through the crash bar mounting holes and finally, into the threaded frame-mounting holes. Using a 12mm socket wrench, "snug up" both bolts. Using a torque wrench, torque each bolt to 23 newton-meters (16.9 foot pounds). The right side crash bar is now installed move to the bike's left side.
Remove the left foot peg Remove the left sub-frame mounting bolt Remove both nuts at the frame-front mounting location that were installed in step 8. Leave the spacers on the bolts. - Slide your makeshift "tank spacer" block toward the left side and ensure that sufficient clearance exists to access the top sub-frame mounting bolt on the left side.
Place the crashbars on the frame-front mounting bolts similar to Step #8 above. (A reminder again that the spacers go between the crash bar and the bike, NOT between the crashbar and the nut). Coat the male threads in medium thread-locking compound. Re-install the nuts and tighten finger tight.
The head of the new bolt is 13mm which is larger than the former (12mm) bolt however the nut size remains the same (12 mm). As such, a 12 and 13 mm wrench and socket wrench are required to tighten. Whether you use the socket wrench for the nut or the bolt head is immaterial provided the 13 mm device is on the bolt and 12 mm device is on the nut. Torque each bolt/nut to 23 newton-meters (16.9 foot pounds).
Align the crash-bar's top sub-frame mounting point with the hole. Locate the following hardware: the remaining M10x1.25x70 bolts (SW-MOTECH Part #9) the remaining 10.5mm washer (SW MOTECH Part #10). 10.5x27mm spacer (SW MOTECH Part #11) - Coat the bolt with a medium thread-locking compound. Refer to Step #8 for how to position bolt, washer, spacer and bar. Tighten the bolt to 46 Nm (33.92 foot pounds)
Locate the following hardware: two of the M8x30 bolts (SW-MOTECH Part #2), two 8.4mm washers (SW-MOTECH Part #3), Place the washers on the bolts and coat the male threads in medium thread-locking compound. Slide the bolts through the foot-peg mounting holes, through the crash bar mounting holes and finally, into the threaded frame-mounting holes. Using a torque wrench, torque each bolt to 23 newton-meters (16.9 foot pounds).
Re-install the tank mounting bolts. Re-install the seat. Re-install the left and right side covers The installation is complete! You will notice that you have some leftover parts (#4 and #8). These are for installing the crash bars with the SW-MOTECH center stand. Tape them up or put them in a ziplock bag, label them and store them away in case one day you purchase this. It is recommended that you re-check mounting hardware for tightness after 50 km.
I hope this helped! Cheers!

Admin Note: We would like to thank Dave for taking the time and putting this much effort into this tutorial. Although not an exceptionally difficult install he has provided many clues for making the install easier and less confusing. Also we should note that he was not asked to do this and provided this information graciously to us to help KLR Riders everywhere.

Thanks Dave!


This post was posted in SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection